Touring in Long island

We rented a car today, along with friends Maryann and George.  We've toured Long Island before and like it.  The car rental was today from noon to noon on Sunday.  It was almost 1:30 when the car finally arrived, so the nice guy gave us until 4 on Sunday to have it ready to be picked up.  That's really like a day and a half for us!   We did the southern half of the island today

First!  It was Farmer's Market day.  We left our dinghies at the dock and started the rather long walk to the market building.  Very quickly, a truck came by and gave all 4 of us a ride to the market.  What a help!  I bought a hand of little home grown bananas, 3 sour oranges (can be used instead of lemons or limes), and a package of red lima beans to make soup.  The farmer's market is held in what seesm to be an old 1 room school house.

 Lunch - at Max's, our favorite little tiki hut conch bar on the island.  Here we are, along with Max, our conch-meister.

Next, to Dean's Blue Hole.  Here is the explanation.

And the blue hole... that would be the dark blue.

Dean's Blue Hole is apparently becoming world famous for free diving competitions. Last year there was an international competition with over 200 participants. The record free dive is 455 feet! Can you imagine that?

After the blue hole, we went further south to Clarancetown, one of the more southern settlements on the island.  Father Jerome built two chuches here - one as an Angelican priest, the other as a Roman Catholic priest.  The first church, built by architect Father Jerome has two tall steeples where you can actually climb to the top.

The second one is just a simple church, but still very pretty.

There are angels garding the gates into the church...

Tomorrow we'll tour the northern half of the island, complete with Loyalist ruins and maybe the Chistopher Columbus "landing site" memorial.  By the way, Luke did a GREAT job of driving on the "wrong" side of the road! 

Conception

A quick blog - more soon.  We sailed from Georgetown to Conception Island, one of our favorites.  It's a Land and Sea Park Island, protected from fishing, etc.

We are currently traveling with friends George and Maryann.  Part of our adventure was a side trip to a mangrove creek at Conception.  Here's George, picking up a dead conch shell for us at low tide- Luke will make a conch horn soon!

Here's a shot of the water from the creek --- pale blue (2 ft), small strip of medium blue (20 ft), dark blue (4000 ft).

We picked up some shells, but really like this one, with his little red inhbitant still there.  He's back to the sea.

Here's a nice view from the creek.

But it's not all sand - there are also rocky shores.

We were treated to a green flash!  Didn't catch it, but here is the sun as it as setting.  See that little "pacman" type skirt?  When you see that, you are almost always assured of a green flash!  I'm sure it has to do with certain atmospheric conditions.

AND!!!!  We saw the actual space shuttle, flying high overhead, as it climbed to orbit on Thursday evening at about 5:05!  It looked like a high flying jetliner, except higher, faster, and disappeared futher away than anything we've ever seen.  What a wonderful sight!!!!

Living in Georgetown

Sailboat names that we’ve seen while here – today’s entry is “Sea Yawl Later”. They were from SC.

We are enjoying our time here. Internet is not as readily available as we’d like. We are a long ways from town, and that makes it more difficult to access at the boat, even with our great new signal booster. Oh, well.

It turned out that two of our plastic enclosure pieces were in need of serious stitching. As it turned out, our friends that we met in Deltaville last summer happen to be anchored “next door” and she has a heavy duty sewing machine, made for repairing sails and such. So, we took off the plastic pieces, took them over in the dinghy, and Chris repaired them for us. Great!

Basket weaving using the fronds from the local palm trees is big here. The natives make the baskets and sell them to the tourists. The cruisers love to make them. There are big groups of females of all ages (men, too, actually) that gather on the beach daily and make these cute baskets. Our friend Phyllis knows how to make them, so she took 3 of us on her boat to teach us! It’s fun and relatively easy – but not easy to make them look as good as the natives can!

After my initial lesson, I came back to Latitudes and began to prepare my fronds. You have to strip them into thin strips to “sew” with. Smoke went crazy – little wispy stringy things in the cockpit. This is a funny picture – that blur on the floor is Smokey, wildly killing a couple of frond strands that she’s been able to snatch from my new stash.

and what a helper she is….I may have to close her up somewhere when I try to weave…

Here is Luke standing in front of the local “straw market”. About a dozen women have small stalls inside and sell everything from home made baskets to junk jewelry to the never-ending tee shirts.

Today we met at the beach with 3 other couples and played dominos. It’s very popular among the cruisers and there are always games going on. We actually bought a set this past summer so we’d have them on board. It’s a fun game, easy to play.

Here’s a different view of the dock in Georgetown, where the water hose is located. This is from the water side – makes you realize just how many dinghies there are around!

On Friday we went, along with about 60 other cruisers, to the local high school. It was a charity event – a school bus picked us up and took us for a 30 minute ride to the only high school on the Great Exuma Island.

Once there, we were given a tour of the school. Today was “casual day”. Generally the students have to wear uniforms. This is grades 7-12. Students with a 2.5 grade average can get a scholarship for free admission to the university in Nassau, but have to pay for room, board, etc. Most have relatives that they can live with. Students who major in math and plan to teach, AND have a 3.0 average get a scholarship for free admission plus a little each month for expenses. Those who don’t quality pay about $500 for room/board for 4 months plus $100 for each course they take.

One of the cruisers brought his guitar and, to the delight of the boys, played a few tunes for them.

Before we left for our return trip, WE were treated to a little music by the high school band (gotta have one for that football team!). They were actually very good!

The weather looks good for leaving Georgetown on Tuesday, 2/22, for a run to Conception Island and a few other more southern islands.  Internet in a few more days!

Still In Georgetown

Internet is awful, we can't get it at the boat.  I've got 80 minutes right now.  We are having a wonderful time, met new friends, and refound old friends.
I'm learning to make baskets from palm fronds! ok, yeah, I know, but it's fun.  Pictures to follow when we have more internet and data (only got 25 mb).
love to all!

What do ya do all day?

Well, one thing that cruisers do is get water for their tanks in the boat.  Water in the Bahamas is about $0.50/gal, making a 150 gallon fill up around $75.  Georgetown has the distinction of being the only place you can get free water.  But you work for it.  First the dinghy ride to the grocery store dock - they graciously provide free water for us.  All day long the cruising dinghies line up, each waiting somewhat patiently for their turn to fill an assortment of jugs with free water.  Its a social event.

Back to the boat in the dinghy.  We can carry 7 x 5 gallon jugs at each trip (you do the math - that's several trips).  These babies are heavy (41 lb each) and last year may have been a contributing factor in Luke's rotator cuff tear.  So, this year, we got smart and decided to pull them up, into the boat, using our hoist that we use to raise and lower the dinghy motor.  Here's Luke, dinghy full of jugs, preparing one for the lift to the boat topside.

And me, pulling on the 6 part pulley system.

and unloading them on the cabin top.

Then they drain slowly into one of our 3 tanks.

 

Our internet seems to be better this year.  Luke bought a new wi-fi booster and I think it's definitely helped. (Makes us feel like a Russian spy ship, Luke). We should be here about a week, based on the wind forecasts.

We did go to the grocery store, too, to pick up a few items, mostly perishables.  Here is how you spend $85 on too few items and why we bring $700 of non-perishables with us.

half gallon orange juice $7
frozern oj  $4/can
pt sour cream  $5
8 oz sliced cheese $5
reg. box cereal $10
apples  $1 ea
onion, $1.40 each
tomatoes $4.50 for 3
sm jelly $5
dozen egge $5
surcharge for using a credit card 5%...

Time to go do cruiser stuff like find someone to mend our canvas!

Intenet again! Catch up...

We made it to Georgetown today, staying for about a week between chores and the weather.  I'll start by catching up...

I think I’ll start the next few blogs with some of my favorite sailboat names that we’ve seen while here. First is “Latitudes”… we hope she’ll take us over many of them! We haven’t seen any other Latitudes. We have seen L’Attitudes and Hot Latte-tudes.


We left Staniel Cay Monday morning, deciding to forgo the diesel (only needed 5 gallons) and water (only 50 gallons) until we arrived in Georgetown in a few days. Georgetown has everything, including free water….

It was a short run to Black Point, only 10-ish miles. We sailed the first half, slammed into waves the second half. Smoke is becoming quite the sailor cat. She just sighs, runs into the cockpit to be with us, and lays as flat as possible closest to her favorite human-du-moment. And waits until it’s all over so she can wander to the bow of Latitudes and help me lower and set the anchor. Then it’s “tummy rub” time.

We got to Black Point, gathered laundry, and set off for the “American style” laundrymat. Only $22 for three loads, plus $10 for Luke’s haircut from the laundrymat lady. Ahhhh…clean clothes! Unfortunately, I also managed to wash one of Smokey’s catnip mousies. Let me tell you, there is no joy in a Tide mousie. That one has gone to mousie heaven.

While there, we ran into fellow boaters from the yard at Deltaville. Remember last spring, while we were on the hard, we met with fellow boaters and watched “Alice in Wonderland” on the large computer of a friend? Well, that’s who we met up with while doing laundry! They are Canadian and headed for Cuba. We'll see them again in Georgetown.

THEY told us that the diesel supplier in Georgetown is out of business and there is no diesel to be gotten there. Sigh. Best laid plans… We’ll find another place, but we sure aren’t happy. I’m sure there are a lot of cruisers that aren’t happy…

After laundry, we tried the grocery store. Can you imagine what mayo that was outdated in 2007 looks like? Don’t try…(greenish)…we left. They didn’t even have onions.

Apparently we are anchored in the taxi zone. First, between laundry and the grocery non-event, we noticed a police boat zipping past with 6 officers aboard. Ten minutes later we hear a “hello???”. Oh, drat… but the nice officer just wanted to know if we could give him a dinghy ride from one of the multiple little moorings off of the government dock to the dock. Sure! We were going in anyway, and who’s to tell a Bahamian police officer “no”?

Ok, now it’s dusk, and we’re outside for sundowners. Zip, up comes a local fishing boat with a friendly, nice guy. A little small talk, and could we give him a dinghy ride from one of the multiple little moorings off of the government dock to the dock? Sure, again. This time he turned out to be a local fishing guide, probably working at one of the few large resorts nearby. We really didn’t mind – we are being allowed so share the beautiful world that these folks call home.

On Tuesday, Feb. 8, we again went outside in the sound for a 15 mile run to Rudder Cay. Rudder Cay is a private island with lots of no trespassing signs around it, and dogs running on the beaaches. But a beautiful place to sit and be in paradise. Smokey likes to sit on the edge of the boat while we’re anchored and contemplate the moving water. I think she has yet to quite figure it out.

We did finally catch a fish, a nasty barracuda. We took the hook out (with looooong plyers) and tossed him back. But Smoke was caught between her curiosity and fear as she crept onto the back deck, tails all a-fluff. This was the first fish for her.

While we were fishing, we realized that the water was so clear and calm that we could see the bottom almost 50 feet down! This doesn’t do it justice, but you’re looking at it!  That dark stuff is rocks on the bottom, 50 ft below!

There are 2 caves on Rudder Cay, each about 30 ft wide, 10 feet deep.

I think this is neat….the deeper water is blue, right? Water near the shore is clear, right? Nope, it’s blue, too. Look at this shot in the cave. You see clear water, but when Luke puts the white oar in the shallow 1 ft of water, you can see the true blue color of the water against the oar. Cool, huh!

We had a rolly5 hour sail to Georgetown today. It was close hauled into 12-15 knots from the NE most of the way, exciting, but not as blissful as say, a beam reach. We are here now, anchored comfortable between the boats of 2 friends.  More about Georgetown tomorrow!

When Pigs Swim...

After posting (while we still had internet) we went for another walk at Warderick Wells. This time we took the Causway Trail, which wanders around the east side of the island. It’s a rocky trail that leads across a small bridge and to a couple of our favorite beaches.

Cute bridge…

We watched a southern stingray follow the incoming water from the sound, under the bridge, and to a nice shallow sandy spot in the low waters leading to the banks.

The shallow water is filled with mangrove babies. The ray is actually in this picture, hidden in the top right quarter, near the rock in the water.

On Feb. 3, we planned our 9 a.m. departure to take the best advantage of the tides leaving Warderick Wells and entering Cambridge Cay, another part of the Exuma Land and Seas Park, about 9 miles further south. Well, you know all about the best laid plans…Luke had the motor going and I threw the mooring line. Just then, Luke shrieked that we had no ability to turn to the right! Not good! Narrow channel, all the boats to the left, sand bank to the right, current from the stern! Luke did an excellent job of missing the line of boats in the mooring field and getting Latitudes positioned so I could snag the last mooring ball going out of the park. After some searching, he localized the problem to the chain that connects our autopilot motor to the steering. A connecting link "keeper clip" had come loose because the chain was rubbing against a fitting, and was causing the chain to jam. With a little radio help from fellow boater Dan, Luke quickly fixed the problem. Dan and Maryann came over to check our progress and lend a hand. So, the nasty problem was solved, and we left an 1 ½ hrs after our plan. We reflect on our luck for this failure to have happened in a relatively benign situation.


Only 9 miles, we sailed nicely in the sound, arriving by 1 at Cambridge. Our favorite “postcard” of Cambridge, Bell Rock.

We did a little snorkeling --- well, Luke did. That water is still too cold for me. I got in, decided it was too cold, and by the time I managed to climb back into the dinghy (water was 10 ft deep), I was certainly no longer cold. BUT I looked great in my new snazzy “skin”. Bobbie’s Skin of Many Colors! Luke said the snorkeling was great – we went two places. I used the lookie-bucket and saw a lot of fishes, too. No pictures this time.


A beautiful Cambridge sunset.

On Friday morning we hiked across the island, on the beach where Bell Rock is located.  The shore itself is rocky and filled with Mosquito Bush. More about that later down…

We left Cambridge early morning to arrive at Staniel (10 miles away) at the appropriate high tide.  The wind was against us (but light) so we just motored the whole 2 hours.  En route we noticed that there is new construction going on at one formerly deserted island.  A huge house is underway, with 8 wind generators to supply energy.  Can you imagine this undertaking??

Staniel cay, home of the famous (locally....) swimming pigs.  These rascals live on a deserted island (no one dares land there).  They swim out to the nearby boats and dinghies to beg.  It must pay, they are really large. 

We watched one swim out at least 100 yards to a trawler to get fed.  It's intimidating ---- this huge pig head - eyes, snout, and big ears out of the water, snorting at it approaches you with determination. 

They try to hang onto your dinghy (not ours, thank you).

Here they are, begging at our friends Cathy & Howie.

Since I covered every shell that I know last winter, I thought I’d do a few plants and animals this year. So, we’ll start with the Mosquito bush. Mosquito Bushes grow on rocky shorelines, sand dunes, open saline areas, and inland on damp sites (everywhere!) On the windy coasts it seldom gets more than 3 ft tall. It is said that the smoke from a smoldering fire of this plant will repel mosquitoes. Its also used in bush medicine to treat colds, stomach aches, and to induce the passing of kidney stones.

Tomorrow we plan  get diesel and water here at Staniel on our way out to Black Point.  A few groceries, LAUNDRY, and some nice beach glass combing there.  Probably no internet again until we reach Georgetown in about 5-7 days.That catches us up.  A little more on land today, then Super Bowl tonight at one of the 2 bars.  We actually have network TV on the boat, so we'll probably watch the last of  there.

One last Park post (probably)

We are enjoying the Exuma’s park, but will probably leave here tomorrow morning to go to another Land and Sea Park location, Cambridge.  Unfortunately, there's no internet there.

Last night we joined other cruisers for sundowners on the beach, at the tiki hut. It’s always nice to meet new people and share experiences. Here’s what the crowd wants you to think we look like…

Here’s what we REALLY looked like! EAT! LOL!

This morning we took the dinghy around to the south side of the island to the more deserted beaches of the park.  Very quiet and pretty.  We did see 2 large stingrays.  Really large.

Smokey continues to amaze us (and fuel our fears that she may end up in the water one day). Pent up in the boat for the afternoon, she had cat fits when we returned. Tearing out of the bowels of the boat, one big hop up the steps, ripping across the cockpit, and bounding across the back deck, she made one last huge leap to the stern pulpit railing to continue her last jump into the dinghy. But the dinghy wasn’t hanging at the stern of the boat where it usually lives --- we have it in the water to use. The railing she landed on is about about 1 ½” thick, and runs along the back of the boat, 5 ft up from the water. Somehow she managed to stop short - tail flailing wildly to control her balance – and managed to stand on the railing, turn herself around, and (relatively) gracefully step down onto the stern seat. This morning we saw her hanging over the back of the boat, again standing on a back railing, one paw supporting herself on an upright rail, while the other one tried to reach our solar panels. Just a little nosey, I guess. Sigh.

We won't have internet again until Saturday, when we get to Staniel Cay (for the Super Bowl! TV in the bar!)

The Exumas, green water, and a green flash!

We are now officially in the cruiser grounds of the Bahamas, The Exuma Island chain. This is a favorite of most cruisers, with the shallow, clear green water.

We spent a wonderful day sailing across from West Bay to Highbourne Cay. It took about 9 hours (again..) but sailing it was great. Prior to our crossing the bank to the Exumas, we saw virtually no other boats. Now we are among 13 anchored here at Highbourne Cay. Highbourne Cay is a privately owned cay with one little expensive marina (1 bag of lettuce - $9!!!). But, we need diesel and water and trash disposal, so we’ll stop in at the marina tomorrow. Trash is $5 for one bag, $10 for a second bag,$25 for a third bag. Needless to say, we’ve got one small bag…..

Smokey made the trip well, alternating between staying in the cockpit with us and sleeping down below. Much better than howling the whole time and hiding behind the toilet.

One “small” boat in particular was anchored when we arrived here. She needed a 150 ft dock all to herself when she went into Highbourne Marina for the night. Can you imagine…. She is “Pure One”, a charter luxury superyacht.... no kidding!!

Sunday, Jan. 30 – this is the day Luke has been waiting for. Perfect sailing(near beam reach, 11 to 14 kts) for 2 hours (12 miles) and the true beauty of the Bahamas. We are at a mooring at Shroud Cay, the first cay of the Exumas Land and Sea Park. All creatures, land and water, are protected.

Smokey helped me enjoy the view after “we” set anchor. She’s such a help! I can’t go on the deck, anywhere, without her assistance. A really mommy’s girl.

After lunch, we launched the dinghy and zipped off to Sanctuary Creek, a little mangrove creed that runs from the mooring field at Shroud to the Atlantic Ocean. It was a beautiful (but sometimes shallow) ride.

Here is a mangrove “nursery” where the young roots are sprouting up, showing at low tide

The sand is so white – I look tan!!

Monday, to Warderick Wells. Again, we sailed the whole way – beam reach, close reach, close hauled, finally tacking the last few miles to Warderick. This is motivated in part by a desire to sail (after all Latitudes is a sail boat), and in part by the realization that we went through about 240 gallons of diesel, since Norfolk. But, about Warderick Wells - we forget, every time, how beautiful this land and sea park really is.

It’s nice to be here again. This morning we walked up to Booboo hill. From there you get a really good idea of the water and the various depths here in the park. The boats (that first one on the left is Latitudes) are in the deep, 12 foot water. The water behind us is only about 1 ½ ft deep. The water in front of us is even shallower, becoming exposed land at low tide.

The snorkeling is great here, as all wildlife is protected. Such as this 4-6 ft Lemon Shark, beside our boat. Apparently it went under there for midday shade, as we didn’t see it come back out after it went under. We did NOT stick our toes in the water…

It’s about 80, sunny, and perfect. We are so grateful to be here. Our view from Latitudes….

This evening we’ll join 2 other boats for “sundowners” at the hut on the beach. Tomorrow we plan to do more exploring and hiking, probably early in the morning while it’s still cooler.