Adult kids (like our age...)...
Boating buddies Bonnie and Pete came by for 4 days of sailing with us in Maine.
Back to Marshall Island and Burnt Coat, and then to Frenchboro. Frenchboro is a sailing community of 40 people, including 3 children. One deli sells lobster and homemade goodies. The community also includes a church, school, firehouse, and post office.
The 12 foot tidal range here means a full little inlet at high tide
And a muddy empty inlet at low tide.
Frenchboro also has the distinction of having over 2/3 of the island being partnered with the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, a move to keep luxury homes, etc, from being built on the beautiful natural setting. We took one of the short hikes to the rocky coast.
Bonnie and Pete are now gone, the boat is readied to move, and we hope to head further "down east" on Saturday, after the rains on Friday. There will be no internet there - nothing at all, in fact, except rocks, ocean, inlets, and quiet. Well, there IS one community we will be visiting. Maybe they will have internet.
Luke took this reflective picture of the little bridge at the Somesville MDI Museum, just across from a bus stop. This is a lovely place.
Summer has arrived in Acadia and it is hot. A sweltering almost 80 during the day, mid 60's at night. The locals are complaining of the heat. In fairness, most shops and homes don't have air conditioning, so it can be really warm inside.
This trip has been difficult, blog wise. Hope it will improve once we leave the Acadia and Down East regions back to the Penobscot. But we are fine - having a great time!
Thursday, July 28, 2016
Friday, July 22, 2016
Kids are gone.
Again - We have been without internet for the past few days,
so I am preparing a blog to post when we finally DO get internet. GOT IT!......
One last post from the family visit – on their last night
with us, we had a traditional lobster dinner.
Lobster, corn on the cob, and potatoes! YUM!
In the quiet of the next day or so, Luke replaced the broken
keel strip on the dinghy. This strip allows
us to pull her up on sandy (or rocky) shores without damaging the dinghy. For a big change, it was actually an easier
than expected repair! Those repairs are far and
few between.
On Saturday, we took the boat to Burnt Coat Harbor on Swans
Island. This is a serious lobster
fishing community. Lots of lobstermen.
But all were very nice –unlike the ones we encountered near Stonington. These guys (and gals) always waved, slowed
down in the harbor, and were friendly.
We met one nice young man, 23 years old, who explained a little about
lobstering to us. Bits of information -
Each lobster boat brings up about 1000 pounds of lobsters daily. He is young
and strong, and can bring up over 2000 pounds per day. Lobsters shed their old shells by digging in
the soft mud and pulling themselves free from the old shell and the mud. The harbor itself has lobster floats. When we asked about it, he said that the
inner harbor pots were for youngsters learning how to lobster, women
lobstermen, and old veterans. “We are
happy to do that for them”.
The town lobster docks –
But not all is cute.
Behind the scenes are stacks and stacks of old lobster traps, floats,
nets, equipment, etc, etc. It reminds us
of some of the Chesapeake Bay crabbing islands.
The islands are small and there is no efficient way of getting rid of
the discarded stuff.
A different area of the island has the old remains of a
stone quarry. No longer in use, the town
has divided the rain filled quarry into 2 sections – divided by a rope. People can swim in one half, the other half
is used by seagulls for bathing. Not
that the seagulls know which half to use… The family swimming and playing in
the water said that it was COLD.
The lobster dock here uses what is available. The posts for the docks – important in 10
foot tidal ranges – are simply trees that have been cut down.
“Trains” of plastic boxes are full of lobsters ready for
market. The lobsters are keep fresh and
aerated by a bubbler.
Back to Burnt Coat, we walked with fellow boater Doug to the
lighthouse. It was renovated just a few
years ago and looks quite nice. Very
Maine! No, this picture wasn't taken from the lighthouse! The water was still and quiet, so we took the dinghy for a ride in front of the house.
From the lighthouse, we could watch two lobster boats racing
back to the docks, ready to end their long, hard day.
On Tuesday, we took Latitudes a whopping 6 miles to Marshall
Island. Doug took this great picture of Latitudes leaving the harbor in Burnt Coat. If you are on a large enough computer, you can pick me out, standing on the side of the boat, helping Luke work our way through the myriad of lobster floats and their toggles.
Marshall Island is a Maine Heritage Trust Island, available to
everyone for walking her beautiful trails.
A nice ramp and dinghy dock awaited us. That is Latitudes in the
distance.
And what a beautiful rocky shore, it is!
These Monarch butterflies were everywhere. Most of the thistle plants had 3 or 4
butterflies on them.
Granite rocks, the blue water, and the island of Ringtown
that Latitudes is anchored behind.
The granite boulders and rocks are lovely. Most are pinkish or gray. This wide vein of dark charcoal gray granite
runs through the usual colors.
The wind picked up in the direction not forecast, so we
moved Latitudes around the island to a more southern anchorage. This lovely cove, with her sandy beach and
pebble beach, gave us a wonderful sight – purple darkening sky with the full
moon and her glow worm.
Today, Friday, we are cleaning ship - laundry again! - in preparation for the arrival of boating buddies Bonnie and Pete. They will be spending a few days with us. Looking forward to it!
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
FINALLY!!!! INTERNET!!!
Internet! At the Laundromat, computer shaking slightly on the table against the agitating washer but that is Ok! The blog....
True to our vow, we left Camden ASAP on Sunday, sailing
briskly across the Penobscot Bay to Castine.
A little too briskly, I guess, as we found a sickening tear in our
mainsail when we pulled it in when we reached Castine, or actually the beautiful Holbrook Harbor across the inlet from Castine..
Tuesday was not fun. It
started at 5 a.m., as we needed to put the sail back up before winds picked
up. Task accomplished after 2 hours, and
we left Central Harbor for Stonington.
Within a mile, Luke noticed that the engine sounded funny and then that
the engine temperature was going up. Not
good. We anchored and explored the
possibilities for the problem. Luke
found it – the water intake strainer had grass in it, apparently restricting
the flow of water into the engine. It was a messy chore…lots of things to move,
open, and test. Not a great
picture, but you get the idea…
Tuesday was a boat ride for everyone to the nearby island of Little Cranberry.
Today - laundry and lobster later!
I do have more pictures but I think this is enough for this blog!
We have been without internet for the days, so I am
preparing a blog to post when we finally DO get internet. We were not, however, without drama…
A lucky phone call from Luke found a wonderful sail maker
just 15 miles from us. Not only did he
answer his phone on a Sunday (we were trying to leave a message) but he offered
to meet us at his shop and repair the sail on Monday, July 4th!! Feeling better, Luke took off to explore the
nearby island of Holbrook. We have been
there before, but a micro burst had passed very recently and the island had
some destroyed areas. That has been 6 or
7 years, and the island is back to the former beauty. Holbrook Bay from the
beach.
Lush meadows, with paths mowed through them.
And lots of beautiful trees.
After Luke’s exploring was done, he picked me up from the
boat and we took a dinghy tour from the water.
Best thing we saw? Seals! They were basking on rocks, waiting for the
fast rising tides (9-12 foot tidal range here). Notice how they lay on their bellies with head and tail raised!
That evening, the howling wind finally subsided and we decided that better
now than risking wind later, so we took down the sail. It is not an easy task.
Finally, sundown.
And after the bright sundown, the calm purple-ish sky of
dusk.
On Monday, the 4th, we set off a-motoring,
heading for the small town of Central Harbor for the sail repair guy. Not only did he pick us up at the dock and give us a brief tour of the "town", he
also took us back with him to his sail loft and we visited while he worked on
the sail.
Only a couple of hours later and all was beautifully repaired. Back in business!
That evening we were treated to a great fireworks display
from the town. No pictures, but a fun
way to end the day.
And the evil grass.
So, happily repaired, we set off again. Another 15 minutes and the same thing
happened. Again, we anchored. More detailed probing, and Luke found aquatic
grass had stopped up the intake hose for the engine. That was a pain to break up! The only thing positive about that stop was
the seals basking on the nearby rock.
Now we are really off to Stonington. But these lobster pots have toggles – smaller
floats attached by an underwater line to larger floats. The underwater line is only about 3 feet
deep, so you can’t sail between them.
And there were a gazillion of them!
Getting through them is like a difficult video game! It was a most miserable, tense
trip. Most lobstermen are nice, some are just indifferent, and a few are
aggressively hostile. As we carefully
threaded our way through the floats, being careful not to catch ourselves or
cause any harm to them, a lobster boat jerk zoomed ahead of us and
intentionally dropped 3 floats immediately in our path. Sigh.
And then the fog set in.
Fortunately, we anchored in the mooring field of the Stonington
lobstermen’s boats just as it really set in.
I hate fog.
After setting the anchor, we realized that we were too close
to one of the moorings, so we upped anchor again, and reset it about 30 feet
further out. That means that I pulled up
and put down the anchor 8 times in one day.
Thank goodness for an electric wench (actually winch {Luke}), but it is still a job.
But, taking it all in stride – unhappy stride, but whatever
– we put the dinghy down and headed for some sightseeing. Lobstermen were still unloading their boats
at the three lobster buying market houses in town. We were lucky enough to find a buyer who was
willing to sell a couple of this lobsterman’s bounty to us. I will spare you pictures of the lobster
fest!
The fog stayed mainly over the water, so town was
sunny. Here are the dinghies of the
lobstermen, all awaiting the next day’s short ride out to the boat to start
their very early day. Most leave at
daybreak.
Someone in town built little houses. When he died and his home was sold, the new
owners thought it was a good idea to donate them to the town. They are cute.
Luke caught one last picture of the fog in the mooring
field.
A quiet night – except for the 5 a.m. lobstermen racing out
– and Wednesday dawned sunny and fog free.
Here is what Stonington really looks like. That red building is the
lobster pound where we bought the previous night.
And Sweet Smokey was elated. Sunshine! Calm!
I have never seen her sleep like this, completely on her back, back legs
stretched as far as possible, face turned up to the sun.
But it didn’t last.
Off again, as we need to be in Somes Sound in Acadia on Thursday. Not a long day, though. Only 8 miles and we anchored in a quiet and
peaceful cove by Buckle Island. The
engine temperature did seem to creep up a bit, so Luke again took apart
everything and checked the inlets again.
Yulp, a lot of grass again. He
did a lot of serious cleaning and pulled more weeds out of the intake
line. We think we’ve got it this time. I made soup and cookies. It was a productive and quiet day.
Thursday – we had intended to go ahead to Acadia, to anchor
in Somes Sound and get ready for Luke’s daughters and their families to arrive
on Friday. But we awoke to fog.
Fog. Lots of fog. Fog so thick that the ports looked like it had
been raining. The moisture from the fog
dripped off of the dinghy and the boom
like rain drops. We sat out the
day at anchor at Buckle.
On Friday, the sky was overcast but no fog. A quick 15 miles to Somes Sound, picked up
Luke’s daughter Erin and her family for an overnight adventure, and a calm,
quiet night.
Calm enough for a group picture on the bow of Latitudes!
We all braved the rain and chill (hey, this is Maine…) and
went into Bar Harbor for the day. Here
is the group on the pier at Bar Harbor
Crazy husband Cian and kids Evelyn and Kiran didn’t mind the
rain and 58 degree water at all…crazy… in the back ground is the schooner Mary Todd.
Daughter Lisa and her family arrived on Saturday.
On Sunday, we went to Jordan Pond for
pop-overs and a walk. Yes, you can tell
by Lisa’s umbrella, it is still raining.
Beautiful Jordan Pond, in the afternoon mist.
Evelyn and Simon with Bompa, taking a walk along
the pond shore.
Next, a drive down the scenic highway, again in the mist, to
Thunder Hole. We didn’t get the loud
boom but the clouds were finally beginning to break!
Maine, vivid Maine, along her coast.
Last, we decided to take the kids to the rocky beach for a
little wear-them-out-play-time. Lisa
made sandwiches and Erin brought the coleman stove for some on the spot mac-n-cheese.
Yum! (but the chill was coming back into the air and most of
us were beginning to huddle down into our jackets)
On Monday, I took Luke to the dock to catch the bus for some
serious hiking with the family. I stayed
behind to catch up the blog to this point and get a few things done (like
knitting!)
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