Friday, August 31, 2018

We are heading south! AMENDED....


Heather came to visit Maine – and escape the late August heat of  NC – so we did sightseeing, of course!  It all started as we brought her up to Rockland from the Portland airport.  We HAD to show her the biggest lobster in Maine!



 Rockport was on our agenda, where the old lime kilns stand at the harbor. In the late 1800's this little town was apparently a major supplier of lime for making cement. 



A biggie on the Maine bucket list was real lobster at a real lobster pound.  Here is where the lobsters come in, next to the McLoon lobster pound.



And HERE are two folks definitely enjoying their lobster rolls.  I’d say Luke is a little more enthusiastic about his!




The Marshall Light is always on the tourist list, located just outside of Port Clyde.  This is where Forest Gump ended his 2 year run in the movie.




A walk out on the break water to the Rockland Harbor lighthouse is always good.



The Penobscot Narrows Observatory was on Heather’s list, along with Ft. Knox.   Here is the observatory from the ground up…



And here is the view from the top down!  Yes, there is a very fast elevator! (about 450 ft in a minute)


Ft. Knox was interesting.  Built on the Penobscot in the 1850's across from Bucksport, the fort was to protect the good folk from potential raiders, like the Spanish. 



It never saw any action, and in fact, for a 48 year period had only 1 man stationed there.  It is an impressively large and elaborate fort! It has been nicely restored and is wonderful to explore.



Heather left, taking our car back south for us.  That was our same day to “turn around” and begin our journey south also, taking Latitudes back to the Chesapeake.  This isn’t a forced march, we have plans to enjoy the trip back as much as possible.  First was a stop in Long Island, ME, to catch up with Connie and Ged.  She made a wonderful dinner and the next day they took us exploring the Harpswell peninsula of Casco Bay.  This old bridge is an example of “cribstone” construction.  The the granite blocks are placed to leave large openings where tide and wind can go through the bridge.  This is the Bailey Island Cribstone Bridge, on the national register of historic places..



The Lands End Point is literally at the end of one of the peninsulas on the Casco.  Very beautiful.



There is also a nice statue there, a tribute to all of the fishermen and women in ME.  The model for the sculpture was a young man from the same small town as Connie and Geb.



Of course, the day couldn’t be complete without one last Maine lobster roll.



Next, to Biddleford Pools, a beautiful stop for the night.  We went ashore, walked to the beach from the pools, and relaxed.  This “resident” loon was fishing when we returned to the boat.  She has caught a fish that is almost too large to contend with and it is weighing her down into the water.  She is beautiful.



We left at almost daybreak and were treated to the sun rising in the morning haze as we neared the lighthouse.




Unlike many of the Maine lighthouses that have red or white lights, this one’s signal is green.



A stop at Portsmouth was next, mostly to see our friends that we met during our first cruise in Maine. We did fill up with water and diesel and had a diver check our propeller.  Latitudes seemed a bit sluggish and we wanted to see if there was rope or something caught in the prop.  The diver assured us that all is well below the surface, but there is in fact evidence that a rope was caught at some time and probably released itself when Luke put the boat into reverse.
Gail took me grocery shopping while Eric helped Luke “supervise” the dive operation.  We made dinner for the 4 of us that night at the yacht clubhouse kitchen.  It was great to see them again.

The channel into Portsmouth has two lighthouses –




New day, new anchorage.  The Isles of Shoals is a mere 7.7 miles out to sea from Portsmough and we love it.  The Isles are actually 9 very small islands.  At one time, this British colony was considered their most import colony in the States, due to the enormous amount of dried cod that they shipped back to England. They were huge schools (“shoals”) of cod.  Today the largest island, Star Island, is home to a hotel/convention center owned by a Universalist  and Unitarian group.  We picked up a mooring between Star Island and Smuttynose Island



Some of the residents from the 1700’s are buried here.  You can see a bit of the hotel also.



Beautiful stone homes were built.



This tiny church served the community.



It seems even more tiny from the inside!



Here are some of the grounds of the hotel, looking at the anchorage.



Trails are on the island.  This one passes an old Spanish cemetary, where sailors on a Spanish ship, the Conception, died in a shipwreck during a winter storm in 1813.


There are plenty of Black Backed seagulls here, too.  The last time we tried this trail it was too close to nesting time and the birds were quite agitated at our presence.  One of them repeatedly dive bombed Luke’s head as he held a stick high above it and made a hasty retreat.  This time the chicks are old enough to be on their own and the parents are elsewhere.



A new addition to the island is modern solar panels.  This 150 KW array supplies 60% of the islands needs in the summer, 100% in the winter.



We took the dinghy to Smuttynose, where a couple of the old homes still stand.  These homes are now used to house “stewards” of the island on a 1 week each basis.  The two teenage girls who were there now with their families helped us off off the dinghy and then to tie it up to a clothesline style rope pully to take it back out into the water.  The water here was almost 70 – we did NOT join the swimmers!


After Smuttynose, we took the dinghy further out to Appledore island to see the gardens of Celia Thaxton.  She lived on the island from childhood until death.  She loved her garden and in 1894 wrote An Island Garden, outlining her garden structure and life on the island. 



Back to Star for ice cream and another walk for Luke.  He found the art shed reflected in the pool of water.



Rockport MA was next.  It turned hot.  Really hot.  Suddenly instead of the 70's in Maine, we had a heat index of 106!  This is the actual first page I got on my weather app....



It did give me an accurate one afterwards!

We DO have sightseeing pictures that I will put in later, but they are on Luke’s phone and I haven’t downloaded them.  We did get these nice pictures of the two lighthouses,  The first, along with the moon, is the Straightsmouth Island Light.  Yes, we left early….



Rockport also has the distinction of having the Twin Lighthouses.


Provincetown on Cape Cod is always on our list.  It’s been 3 years since we were here, but we didn’t expect the growth!  We were surprised to see cars on the beach in front of the first lighthouse.



We were stunned to see the cars and people on the beach in front of the second lighthouse!



The fishing boat dock, where we land our dinghy, was dense with fishing boats.  Even the addition of extra dinghy docks didn’t help us – it was difficult to find a place to put it.



Town itself was busy, but then, it is almost Labor Day.  It was nice to see it again. We left early enough the next day to catch the lighthouse with only birds.



We had to time our departure from Provincetown to go through the Cape Cod canal at the right tide.  The current here peaks at almost 3 ½ knots and that is a lot of try to sail against.  But the big barges can do it!  We met this absolutely huge barge coming towards us.  Yes, the picture is not good, and that’s because it’s taken through our enclosure screening.  Flies were horrible.  They came in droves and were interested in our ankles and most other exposed body parts.  We learned the hard way in the Chesapeake about the importance of having screens and were ready to put them up.


 Here is one of the pretty bridges on the canal - shot before the flies got too bad.



Today we are in Onset, just at the western end of the Cape Cod Canal.  Pizza, laundry, and internet filled today.  Smokey always helps with laundry...



 Tomorrow we plan to leave for Block Harbor, weather permitting.

AND - 4 MONTHS LATER ----

It was crazy and we had little internet.  When we got home, it was even crazier with a trip to CO to see the grandkids, guests, the trip to  China, and then there was Christmas with all of the guests, parties, and fun.  And then New Years...  BUT to finish the story without pictures ----


We left Onset for a bumpy ride to Block Island.  It was fun to be there again.  From there, we headed down the coast to Atlantic City. Our initial goal was Cape May, but a long day and impending storms stopped us in Atlantic City.  After a few stormy days there, we were faced with the decision of where to ride out Hurricane Florence.  Atlantic City wasn't an option, as the anchorage is too open to the ocean.  So, at the gracious invitation of two wonderful boating friends, we turned back north and spend one entire dense fog-ridden day going to Barnagat Bay NJ. We made it soooo far but by the time we were safely in the waters behind the barrier islands, the fog closed so tightly that we could not see our way, even with the help of our GPS and chart plotter.  With info from our friends, we called the Coast Guard Auxiliary.  They found us and guided us all the way to our destination (the guardsman is a good friend/neighbor our our buddies).  Safe at last for almost a week!
Back into the Atlantic, we sailed uneventfully back down the coast with stops in Cape May, a scoot up the Delaware Bay, a couple of stops for bad weather in the Chesapeake, and finally after a long stormy day ended up in Reidsville, VA for the night.  Boating friends Wendy and Warwick keep their boat there and had recommended a marina.  Just the idea of another long day on the Chesapeake was enough to convince us to check into the option.  It was a good option, less expensive than Deltaville, convenient to the Bay, and WE WERE ALREADY THERE!  Out of the water we went, prepared the boat for the winter, had Heather pick us up with our car, and ended up back home by the end of  September.  ahhhhh.....  so much for boating until next spring, when we'll put Latitudes back in the water and re-explore the Chesapeake Bay.  Our boat excursions will be days or weeks, not months.  It will be a nice change to have more time at home but with Latitudes available whenever we want to use her.

Saturday, August 18, 2018

more Maine and back to Rockland


This covers the last of our cruising Maine adventures, taking us back to Rockland to pick up daughter Heather for her visit to Maine.  She will take our car back home for us and we’ll embark on the 3 week or so trip in Latitudes back to the Chesapeake.  We will be seeing friends along the way and doing some sightseeing, but this is sort of our goodbye to Maine cruising.

We sailed back to Rockland from Buckle to pick up the replacement propeller for our dinghy’s outboard motor.  Luke got the job done flawlessly!  We did take the opportunity while being in Rockland to pick up the car and do laundry, get groceries, do some sightseeing by land, etc, etc. 

Sailing into Rockland, we passed her beautiful lighthouse, sitting at the end of the jetty a mile out into the bay.



While there, we just skirted an awful storm.  Camden, just 12 miles north, got heavy rain, hail, and wind – as you can imagine from this picture!



While we had the car, we drove to BoothBay Harbor.  The harbor -



Last year we drove along the shore of Ocean Point with Barb and Jim and it was beautiful.  We decided to do it again and visit some of the same spots.  



One nice spot is this lovely stone church.



Even the inside of the small church is stone and wood.



Luke got to spend one special day at Searsport, home of the Bluejacket Ship Crafters, a model ship store and the Penobscot Maine Museum.  The Bluejacket is full of beautifully built model ships.




The kits range from several hundred to over a thousand dollars. They estimate that for a model builder of moderate experience,  to build the more complex models would take 500 to 700 hours, and the kit may not include everything you'd need -- paint, etc.  If they build the kit for you, it can cost  five or six thousand into the 10 thousand plus..  The ships and their detail are amazing.

The Penobscot Maine Museum is actually a city block of historic buildings. More model ships and paintings of ships.


The ship captains living here had a pretty good life.



This barn has a variety of old boats, one of which belonged to E.B. White, arthor of Charlotte's Webb and other children's books.



We decided to sail only in the Penobscot Bay area, as we had only a few days and needed to be sure we’d be back in time to pick up Heather.  The persistent fog had us a bit skittish.  First, Belfast for pizza and a walk around town.  No pictures.  Next, back to Castine, home of the Maine Maritime Academy.  Her training ship, The State of Maine, has been out of town for a while, being recommissioned.  She was back!




While we waited out rain and fog in Holbrook Harbor at Castine, I decided to take a nap in the cockpit.  Little Smoke decided to do the same, as I found after Luke took this picture.


Luke wanted to go back to a beautiful island that we have explored only once before, McGlathery.  Now, there is a reason we’ve been there only once.  We got VERY lost on the island when we were there.  It was getting to be dusk, thick, dark pine woods, no Latitudes in sight, and I was MOST unhappy.  Fortunately, Luke located a sailboat in the harbor, called to her on the radio, and got our location.  I swore I’d never go back, but I did. I think it took 9 years.

We passed the prerequisite lighthouses along the way.




And here is McGlathery.



We must have been two of many that have gotten turned around on the island because the trail across the island is now well marked, boater style.  Bits of rope mark some of the trail.



Lobster buoys that have broken free and floated ashore are also used to mark parts of the trail.



Yes, it’s the middle of August and cold enough for jeans and fleece.

We successful made it to the other side of the island



and found a newly washed up float to add to the trail markers.



Back across McGlathery and we found fog.




We spent 3 full days at McGlathery, waiting for the fog to lift so we could continue.  Finally, the fog was light enough that we were comfortable making the trip to North Haven for the first half mile, and then it was as thick as anything we've ever been in. Boats we saw on RADAR became visible at less than 0.2 nm -- that's pretty close! The next day, we continued on to the island cluster of Dix and High, only 8 miles from Rockland (my comfort level of being back to pick up Heather).  By the time we got to Dix and High ---SUN!



A big granite quarry used to be worked on the island of High.  We have heard that over 2000 men worked on the small island.  Old blocks of granite line the shore, creating a wharf for the boats to pick up the granite.


The old quarry is no longer in use.



For well over the last 10 years that we have been coming to Maine, the island was managed by a conservation group, allowing visitors to the island.  Unfortunately, the island was recently put on the market and ultimately sold to a business that wants to again mine granite.  So far, they have just destroyed parts of the beautiful island, cutting and burning trees.  A “no trespassing” sign sits at the entrance to the island, but when no workers are there, the visitors continue to come while they can.



One last sunset for our 2018 – and last – Maine cruise.



Back to Rockland,  we picked up the car for the final time, provisioned everything possible that is non-perishable for the entire trip back, did laundry, picked up prescriptions, and are now sitting out a windy, rainy day.  Smokey is making the best of it…..with the August temperatures being in the upper 60’s at night, we’ve taken the “down alternative” comforter off of the bed and wrapped it in towels and put it on the shelf on Luke’s side of the bed.  Smokey has found it…..,



Tomorrow and the next few days are promised to be sunny and cool during Heather’s visit.  We’ll be sightseeing before she leaves.  Then to visit friends in Maine as we start south, and then the dedicated cruise south, with some visits with friends and sightseeing along the way. I will post as I can