Monday, August 24, 2009

Sorento, French Harbor, Bill, and Buckle Island

We sailed to Sorento, ME. Not much there except a walk around town and to the local lobster Distributor. This is the intermediary between the lobster docks, and the restaurants, grocery stores, etc. This place stores 60,000 lobsters at a time, some as large as 16 pounds (from Canada, not the US... we have size laws)
Anyway, we bought a whopping 2 pounder for only $10, off to the boat with friends Gail & Eric, who also bought a lobster, and a great lobster dinner!. oh, but to GET to the boat... a 15 minute walk from the lobster pound... well, we had already met 3 motorcyclists from Canada. One of them graciously gave Luke a quick trip to the dinghy, lobster on ice in our backpack.

From Sorento, we went to Frenchboro, on Long Island. En route we saw the sailing vessel Mary Todd. She's the only 4 masted schooner in Maine. Just beautiful!

At Frenchboro, we tried anchoring but managed to only pick up seaweed. Note the small "clip" at the top of the picture? That's our 66 pound anchor... the rest is about 10 ft of seaweed.


Anyway, took a mooring in the small basin of Frenchboro, along with mostly lobster working boats.

Frenchboro is a small community - 2 lobster stores, a church, school, and museum - plus walking trails throughout the island,

leading to beautiful vistas of the rocky shore

complete with a nice chair.

The tidal difference here is 12 feet between low and high tide. At high tide, the docks are all at water level...

From Frenchboro, we made a difficult sail in dense fog to Somes Sound. Miserable trip. The big challenge is avoiding the lobster pot floats tied to their associated toggle floats when they appear out of the fog only a hundred feet way - in bunches.

Somesville is about six miles inland, about as far as you can get in the Acadia area.

Safe from wave surges and high wind gusts. Hurricane Bill turned out to be just a lot of rain, no more than a few wind gusts to 25 kts. We were grateful.

From there, we made the quick trip to Buckle Island, a private island with great, mossy, public walking trails.

The trails went around the island, sometimes leading to beautiful sea vistas.

We saw our first seal basking on a rock!

The trails sometimes lead from dense forest areas

to sunlit meadows. Someone with a great sense of humor installed this door on the trail. It opens from a dark forested part of the trail to the meadow and seaside rocks. A sign on the door says "the door from dark to light".

We're safe & sound!

Bill didn't bring much wind to our safe anchorage, but a lot of rain. We've been holed up at the head of Somes Sound, ME (Acadia National Park) since Friday. Unfortunately, there is virtually no cell and internet service here. I'm lucky to have gotten on now. Our plan is to move today, so hopefully, I can do a catch-up blog tonight.
Somes Sound is a 6 mile long, narrow sound (the only fiord in North America along it's banks). It ends as far inland as possible in this area. That's where we and quite a few other boats rode out Bill. The high waves didn't come this far.
Later!!

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Blueberry Festival and Mistake Island and 1334 miles

Ever wonder why blueberries cost so much? Because it's hard work, that's why... We took a side trip to a blueberry farm, one of the many small local growers in Maine.


These folks grow 34 acres a year. The harvesting is with a migratory Guatemalan or Haitian help, back-breaking work of "combing" the low blueberry plants with 2 ft long combs, and then dumping the berries into a box. The farm owner is showing us how. Those are a couple of the combs in the foreground. How'd you like to do that for 34 acres?


Next, for sale as "fresh" (as opposed to processed) berries, the berries are tumbled onto a little moving belt (think about the grocery store) while somebody else in the family picks out the obviously bad ones. The bad ones go to another buyer to make juice, etc, instead of selling as fresh berries. All this for $3.00/pint from the grower.

On Mistake Island, we picked enough in the wild to make a pie, and it was hard work. We happened to go to the farm as a part of the Blueberry Festival in Machias, ME. Machias was our most northern latitude this trip, slightly further north than our last stop in Cutler last year. We were at 44 deg 43.160N. That a 1334 mile straight line distance from our most southern point in the Bahamas this winter. Whew! The town of Machias itself is over 5 miles up the Machias river, a shallow river that Latitudes couldn't negotiate. It was a pleasant dinghy ride. Here is the low bridge that Latitudes could not pass under, not to mention the shallow water.

We saw eagles en route, several of them. But, I could only catch a shot of one as he soared away from us.

The festival had the usual church sponsored fish dinner (it was good, actually, with blueberry pie for desert!)

And then, the obligatory pie eating contest...

There were lots of the usual craft and art booths, many with beautiful art and jewelry.

From Machias, we headed for Mistake Island. This was one of our favorite spots last year. It has a deserted Coast Guard shack and lighthouse on it, with a narrow boardwalk across the small island.


There is a deep inlet between Mistake Island and it's neighbor. With tide variations of over 12 feet here, the inlet goes from 12 foot depths to a mud flat at low tide. Here's the dinghy, sitting on the mudflat beside the old Coast Guard shack. You can't stay on the island too long, though, if you leave the dinghy here. 12 feet in 6 hours means a quick change in the water levels, like 3 ft per hour at half tide!

The Mistake Island Lighthouse as seen from the same istmus between Mistake and it's neighbor, Knight Island.


We did stay long enough to pick those berries and to take some shots of the beautiful view from the top of the island.

We spent the night anchored among the rocky ledges at Mistake Island. There's more room than is seems.

The next morning was foggy. Here's the lighthouse as we left the inlet. It stayed that way almost all day, with only a few breaks in the fog. We had to finally dig out the ol' Maine foghorn. We have radar and can see all the other boats out there. But if they don't have radar, they can't see us, but they can HEAR us! Anyway, it's a law that you are supposed to blow a foghorn during dense fog. Makes me feel better.

Back to Acadia for the day, to meet friends from Portsmouth, Gail and Eric, for a couple of days. We spent a little time yesterday on Little Cranberry Island. Always wanted to go there --- been there, done that... There is a post office with a closed up general market, a couple of local craft shops, and a small museum of the history of the island. oh, and a restaurant that opens at 5pm. Nice to visit, once.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Acadia National Park

We spent several days in Acadia National Park - a GREAT place! Unfortunately, there was very limited cell and virtually no Internet available where we were anchored for the visit. So... a longer than usual blog.

We spent one day riding bicycles on the carriage trails,

trails put in by John Rockefeller so his guests could enjoy the beautiful surrounds while in a horse drawn carriage. The trails wind past several ponds, with only moderate slopes, designed not to overtax the horses..

The views were all spectacular. This is Bubble Pond, along the carriage road.

Jordan Pond, the home of the famous Jordan House and it's popover lunch - the view of Jordan Pond and "the Bubbles" from the lunch area.

Another day, we did some hiking on the trails along the coast, with unending spectacular views.
This is Otters Point (river otters that live up the river, not in the ocean)
Next day, we took the free LL Bean bus to SW Harbor, and also took a little hike on the Wonderland Trail, which ended up on a rocky point, where we saw two schooners passing in the fog.
We also did the usual things like laundry, grocery shopping, and exploring Bar Harbor - or, as they say here "Bah Hab Bah".

As we left our anchorage in Somes Sound, we passed one of our favorites, a schooner sailing slowly up the sound. Always beautiful.


Next, we went to an anchorage at Winter Harbor, still part of the Acadia park system, but on the mainland of Schoodic Peninsula instead of Mt. Desert Island where most of the park is located. The entrance to the harbor is graced with the usual picturesque lighthouse.

While only about 10 miles east of Mt. Desert, tourism gives way to serious lobster fishing.

We took the LL Bean bus to Schoodic Point, another rocky promontory.
Exploring Schoodic Point's big granite boulders on the beach, we saw some interesting veins of other rock mixed in.

Part of the park activities is a sculpting competition, 7 artists from around the world (selected from 150 applicants). The competition is every 2 years. Here is last year's winner, "Cleat", in the Winter Harbor harbor

The competition was set up at the closed US Nays Intelligence installation at Schoodic Point. This is reputed to be the base or at least organization where the ill fated sky ship USS Pueblo (captured by the North Koreans - remember?) reported. These artists really get into their work!

Luke caught this shot of two lobster boats "on the hard", waiting for their chance to go back into the water and live again.

Winter Harbor also has an eagle family - mom, dad, and 2 juveniles, about 2 yrs old. Here's one of the parents.

Leaving Winter Harbor this morning, we passed Schoodic Point


and the lighthouse at the island of Petit Manan. Pretty desolate...

A little afternoon fog rolled in, just as we were reaching our destination for the night, Roque Island.

After the fog cleared, we took the dinghy to shore, to walk the 1 mile sand beach, the only one in this area. It was deserted and nice to walk on. Only about 45 miles from the tourist center of Acadia and Bar Harbor, we are nearly alone - only 2 other boats spending the night within this beautiful Roque Island Archipelago.


Tomorrow we plan to head for one more down east location, not sure which one yet, but after that we will probably turn around and begin our adventure westward and southward (up west?).

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Stonington & the Wooden Boat Building School

We left Camden as quickly as possible, same day, and sailed quietly to a nice spot, Pulpit Harbor. It's a protected harbor, the entrance guarded by a 100 year old osprey nest, still an active nest.



Then to Stonington after a night's sleep. Stonington is a nice town


lots of fishing boats and a parade of schooners sailing past.



It was a quiet place to pick up mail, have lunch, and walk the pretty streets along the waterfront. oh, and don't forget the shops. There is also a public accessible, state owned island near Stonington that we took the dinghy to. Pretty to explore.


From there to the Wooden Boat Building School. You can take all sorts of classes there, including building your own wooden sailing dinghy, canoe, or kayak.



They have wooden boats on hand, too, for sailing classes or day cruises.

Early afternoon, a squall blew through, so we spent the night moored at the Wooden Boat School, with some picturesque wooden boats.


Next, Acadia National Park, past the lighthouse at Bass Harbor. We enjoyed it last year and wanted to see more of it. We again sailed up the Somes Sound and are anchored at the head of the sound. A short dinghy ride to the dock and a 2 minute walk to the street, and we are on the free bus route all over Mt. Desert Island. You can see Mt. Desert as we approach Somes Sound.


We'll rent bikes on Monday for rides on the carriage trails. Today we're just going to do some exploring.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Our Little Wickie

It was a tearful, heart-wrenching day, but it was time. We found a great vet in Camden. We miss our little buddy terribly.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

SSCA Gam

We had a wonderful time at the gam. Saturday potluck lunch was a great time to talk to a lot of other cruisers, learn from them, and make new friends. It's rather humbling to meet so many couples who have sailed the oceans, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, etc. We hope to see several couples again as we head south and also in the Bahamas this winter. The planned big dinghy raft-up on Friday was rained out, so it was rescheduled for Saturday afternoon. There were well over 50 dinghies there, with pot luck munchies -- no dinner required. We invited some new friends to Latitudes for drinks and further munchies afterward.

Gilkey harbor is a cute place, with a few lobster boats and their associated work floats,


with Warren Island, a state park, and the hills of Camden, in the background.


In addition to meeting everyone at the gam, we also were able to meet up with our friend Arnie from last year. It was great to see him again.


Fog all day today, but it is supposed to be sunny on Monday. If so, we'll head out early for Belfast, ME, and then to Holbrook Harbor at Castine, one of our favorite Maine anchorages.