Saturday, August 18, 2018

more Maine and back to Rockland


This covers the last of our cruising Maine adventures, taking us back to Rockland to pick up daughter Heather for her visit to Maine.  She will take our car back home for us and we’ll embark on the 3 week or so trip in Latitudes back to the Chesapeake.  We will be seeing friends along the way and doing some sightseeing, but this is sort of our goodbye to Maine cruising.

We sailed back to Rockland from Buckle to pick up the replacement propeller for our dinghy’s outboard motor.  Luke got the job done flawlessly!  We did take the opportunity while being in Rockland to pick up the car and do laundry, get groceries, do some sightseeing by land, etc, etc. 

Sailing into Rockland, we passed her beautiful lighthouse, sitting at the end of the jetty a mile out into the bay.



While there, we just skirted an awful storm.  Camden, just 12 miles north, got heavy rain, hail, and wind – as you can imagine from this picture!



While we had the car, we drove to BoothBay Harbor.  The harbor -



Last year we drove along the shore of Ocean Point with Barb and Jim and it was beautiful.  We decided to do it again and visit some of the same spots.  



One nice spot is this lovely stone church.



Even the inside of the small church is stone and wood.



Luke got to spend one special day at Searsport, home of the Bluejacket Ship Crafters, a model ship store and the Penobscot Maine Museum.  The Bluejacket is full of beautifully built model ships.




The kits range from several hundred to over a thousand dollars. They estimate that for a model builder of moderate experience,  to build the more complex models would take 500 to 700 hours, and the kit may not include everything you'd need -- paint, etc.  If they build the kit for you, it can cost  five or six thousand into the 10 thousand plus..  The ships and their detail are amazing.

The Penobscot Maine Museum is actually a city block of historic buildings. More model ships and paintings of ships.


The ship captains living here had a pretty good life.



This barn has a variety of old boats, one of which belonged to E.B. White, arthor of Charlotte's Webb and other children's books.



We decided to sail only in the Penobscot Bay area, as we had only a few days and needed to be sure we’d be back in time to pick up Heather.  The persistent fog had us a bit skittish.  First, Belfast for pizza and a walk around town.  No pictures.  Next, back to Castine, home of the Maine Maritime Academy.  Her training ship, The State of Maine, has been out of town for a while, being recommissioned.  She was back!




While we waited out rain and fog in Holbrook Harbor at Castine, I decided to take a nap in the cockpit.  Little Smoke decided to do the same, as I found after Luke took this picture.


Luke wanted to go back to a beautiful island that we have explored only once before, McGlathery.  Now, there is a reason we’ve been there only once.  We got VERY lost on the island when we were there.  It was getting to be dusk, thick, dark pine woods, no Latitudes in sight, and I was MOST unhappy.  Fortunately, Luke located a sailboat in the harbor, called to her on the radio, and got our location.  I swore I’d never go back, but I did. I think it took 9 years.

We passed the prerequisite lighthouses along the way.




And here is McGlathery.



We must have been two of many that have gotten turned around on the island because the trail across the island is now well marked, boater style.  Bits of rope mark some of the trail.



Lobster buoys that have broken free and floated ashore are also used to mark parts of the trail.



Yes, it’s the middle of August and cold enough for jeans and fleece.

We successful made it to the other side of the island



and found a newly washed up float to add to the trail markers.



Back across McGlathery and we found fog.




We spent 3 full days at McGlathery, waiting for the fog to lift so we could continue.  Finally, the fog was light enough that we were comfortable making the trip to North Haven for the first half mile, and then it was as thick as anything we've ever been in. Boats we saw on RADAR became visible at less than 0.2 nm -- that's pretty close! The next day, we continued on to the island cluster of Dix and High, only 8 miles from Rockland (my comfort level of being back to pick up Heather).  By the time we got to Dix and High ---SUN!



A big granite quarry used to be worked on the island of High.  We have heard that over 2000 men worked on the small island.  Old blocks of granite line the shore, creating a wharf for the boats to pick up the granite.


The old quarry is no longer in use.



For well over the last 10 years that we have been coming to Maine, the island was managed by a conservation group, allowing visitors to the island.  Unfortunately, the island was recently put on the market and ultimately sold to a business that wants to again mine granite.  So far, they have just destroyed parts of the beautiful island, cutting and burning trees.  A “no trespassing” sign sits at the entrance to the island, but when no workers are there, the visitors continue to come while they can.



One last sunset for our 2018 – and last – Maine cruise.



Back to Rockland,  we picked up the car for the final time, provisioned everything possible that is non-perishable for the entire trip back, did laundry, picked up prescriptions, and are now sitting out a windy, rainy day.  Smokey is making the best of it…..with the August temperatures being in the upper 60’s at night, we’ve taken the “down alternative” comforter off of the bed and wrapped it in towels and put it on the shelf on Luke’s side of the bed.  Smokey has found it…..,



Tomorrow and the next few days are promised to be sunny and cool during Heather’s visit.  We’ll be sightseeing before she leaves.  Then to visit friends in Maine as we start south, and then the dedicated cruise south, with some visits with friends and sightseeing along the way. I will post as I can


Thursday, August 9, 2018

More Maine, more fog, less internet...

We have  been back to Rockland for 3 days - the first time we've had internet since the last post!  SO, again I'm catching up.  Alex, these pictures are for you because we KNOW you'll get back here.

We spent about a week in Somes Sound, our anchorage for a visit to Acadia Nat'l Park.  We spent one day doing the shore walk, in the fog.



Thunder Hole was at it's best - big claps of "thunder" every time the incoming wave hit the rocks in the narrow inlet.  You can see the spray just above the end of the inlet.


With my  most excellent experience at bicycling the Carriage Trails last year, I opted to stay on the boat while Luke went.  He left foggy and early to pick up his bike and then spent most of the day on the trails.  The waterlilies are in bloom along the trail, covering some of the ponds.


Some ponds had white lilies, some had yellow



Flowers and bees were everywhere


It remained foggy on the water, but Luke had some sunshine inland.  There are still wisps of fog in the distance.


When Luke returned to Bar Harbor, he found that the bar between the town of Bar Harbor (hence the name!) and the little island offshore was uncovered at low tide.  Folks were exploring the long, narrow bar of land while the tide was out, with fog in the distance.


The next day we took the buses to Jordan Pond for a walk and popovers - again in the fog...

Here is the picture of The Bubbles last year, in the bright sun.



And this year in the fog


We did take a walk in the woods along the shore of Jordan Pond


This is the house that Rockefeller had built for his gate keeper...senior park folk live there now.


We did take two days to go to Winter Harbor, located on the Schoodic Pensulia.  Friends Mary and Dick live there and we wanted to see them.  So, we left Latitudes and Smokey at anchor in Somes Sound and took the ferry for the 45 minute ride to Winter Harbor.  Yes, it was foggy.


The fog lifted a bit during the ride, but you can see the line of it along the shore.


Mary and Dick gave us a great tour of the area, including these amazing cliffs


The next morning we took the "boardwalk" to the beach at Corea, still on the Schoodic Peninsula.


The large flat rocks were perfect for our lunch that Mary packed.  She even packed a "mud sling" drink for the two of us to share! And more fog...


The harbor  of Corea is like all of the others in Maine - full of lobster boats, with the fog bank in the distance.


Back to the boat and Smokey, we were able to leave the next day, as the forecast for was for just areas of fog.  We made the 16 mile run to the Long Island, home of the town of Frenchboro. 



About 75% of the island is set aside as a nature preserve.  Trails across the island lead to the beaches. 


First, "Big Beach" composed of basket ball sized granite rocks.


Then the large rock beach with the typical Maine granite boulders.


Last year we met Tennie and Joe.  Joe is a third generation lobersterman from Frenchboro.  His dad and granddad still go out each day! He and Tennie have been together about 3 years and she works as his "sternman".  We visited with them a bit and then, the next day, caught up with them after we went to  Swans Island, at Burnt Coat Horbor. They were bringing in the days catch.  Their sweet 8 month old great dane goes fishing with them every day.  Yes, that is fog behind them.


Schooners soon began to fill up the anchorage with us. This is the steel hulled, fairly recently built, schooner "Angellica"


Finally, the next day, SUN shinning on the Burnt Coat harbor! We've had fog for about 13 of the last 14 days, at least 8 days of solid fog, all day long! Even the Mainers are complaining about it!


We went to shore to walk to the lighthouse at the channel entering the harbor.


The view from the lighthouse. Yes, there is a wisp of fog out there.


After 2 days, we left for the small island of Buckle.  This is one of our favorites - we go here to walk the island every year.  The shore is mostly rocky.


But some parts of the shore do have grass.


This little island is just off Buckle.  We've collected mussels from there during low tide - yum!  But this year there is a widespread warning about collecting the mussels, something like red tide, so we left them alone.


So we're now back in Rockland for a few days.  We've used this time to do laundry, get groceries, and drive to visit both Boothbay and Searsport .  Pictures from those days will follow.  This is enough for now!!!