Matinicus and the fog

Lobster buoy, then toggle…. Lobster buoy, then toggle…all we could see to our 100 foot horizon was lobster buoys, toggles. The current was coming towards us, so we figured out the buoy/toggle system pretty quickly. The radar showed the boats ahead, so we knew where they and where the shore was. The chart plotter showed us where we were, a few hundred yards from the harbor. We found the promised mooring float, with its attached plastic bottle for the honor system payment, in the middle of the small harbor well before we could see the rocky shore 50 feet away. And, so we arrived at Matinicus Island, completely enveloped in the famous dense Maine fog. We tried not to travel in the fog – awoke at 4:45 Monday morning to take advantage of the current, but “waited out the fog” until 8. Nope, it found us about ½ way to our destination, Matinicus Island, 20 miles out to sea from mainland Maine. We thought it was bad when we arrived – here is our nearest moored boat.

And here she is about 30 minutes later…see her? No, we couldn’t either…

The fog stayed all day, so we just enjoyed our visit to Matinicus. Back to that lobster smack --- that is a “buy boat” arrangement that services this outer island. The boat provides (sells) to the 21 lobstermen of the island their fuel and bait each morning. Then, after a long day of pulling 1/3 to 1/2 of their 800 lobster pots, each boat returns to the “Dutchess” smack boat and he buys their lobster catch. Every other day, the Dutchess runs the 30 miles to Rockland to sell the lobsters. This costs him about $240 in diesel each way! But, the owner of the Dutchess told us that Mantinicus is the most productive lobster ground in Maine. The 21 active fishermen last year harvested 3 million pounds of lobster!

A little about Matinicus - as mentioned before, this is the outermost Maine island inhabited year round. 30 or so brave souls stay all year. The one room, all-grade school has about 3 -9 students.

Matinicus is also the home of some of a few “lobster wars” in the past years. Tempers run high, especially regarding lobstering territory. A couple of years ago one incident ended in cutting of pots and a shooting. The shooter was found innocent but we were told that the island is now pretty much divided. Not good when you have only 50 or so permanent residents.

The fact that this is a working harbor became real as we approached the harbor in our dinghy. This is not a tourist town.

Here is the inner harbor later, when the sun make brief showing.

And we knew we were in a unique place when we saw this sign on the wharf.

A slow walk down the main road on the island.

We lucked into the unexpected – a college student, home for the summer, set up her own “lemonade stand”. Burgers and drinks on the lawn. The only restaurant on the island! This was later described by the island bakery person as a real improvement to the island.

Back to the boat, a rest after our 4:45 awakening, and the local guy who sets out the guest moorings was in his lobster boat next to us. He came over to collect his mooring fee and offered to sell us lobsters just caught. We took them! 2 lobsters, about 1.5 pounds each, for $6 each! One was enough for tonight –

The other has been cooked also, picked, and in the frig for later. Smoke couldn’t help herself – she wanted to help with the lobsters.

Today we left in the same ol' fog we arrived in.  Fortunately the fog lifted  after just a few miles, giving us good visibility.  We finally met up with Maine friends Margie & Arnie!  They are out on a 2 week vacation cruise.  The weather was too variable to go to shore ("if you don't like the weather in Maine, wait 5 minutes - it'll change...).  And it did change from sun to cloudy to fog to sun to fog to cloudy to windy.. you get the picture.  But it is great to see them again!!!

Our plan for tomorrow is to explore a few of the islands in Dix Cove and then to Rockland for the Lobster Festival with Margie and Arnie!  oh, the lobster dinner there and the "county fair" attractions!  Can't wait!