Friday, December 31, 2010

Made it to St. Augustine (74!!!!)

We had an extremely uneventful, calm overnight sail (motor) to St. Augustine, arriving around 11a.m. on Thursday.  It was a clear day, beautiful sunset, and starry night.  Other than the number of shrimping boats we encountered, working their shrimp nets in the night, we saw no other sailboats. The best part of an overnight trip is dawn.


Ah, St. Augustine!  The land of 74 degrees (at least right now).  The Bridge of Lions, a landmark of St. Augustine for generations  has been completely refurbished.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_of_Lions   The old temporary bridge that was built during the reconstruction is almost demolished.



Here are Luke & Smokey, waiting patiently in the WARMTH, with our overnight wollies still at hand, waiting for the bridge to open for us.



We met Lisa, Mat, and Simon at the docks.  A little  tour of St. Augustine, fine dining at a pizza place, and home for the night.


This morning the dew was heavy, so Luke did a little dew cleaning.  Smokey helped.



Today we brought Lisa and family to the boat for Simon's first sailboat tour on his Bompapa's boat (Bompa is Flemish for grandfather --- Simon added his own little touch). 



We will join them later at their campsite for a chili cookoff and some New Year's Eve fireworks.  Pictures to follow tomorrow of our day together.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Christmas in Savannah

We had a wonderful visit and Christmas in Savannah, staying with our sister-in-law Beth.  My dad was able to join us, too. 



Our only regret is that the wonderful Christmas snow that everyone wants kept us from driving up to NC to spend Christmas Eve and day with my daughters Nikki and Heather.  We were looking forward to that.

Smokey ajusted quickly to Beth's house --- low windows with squirrels and all sorts of birds in the yard.


Christmas shopping on Christmas Eve, a glorious Christmas Eve church service at Beth's church, Asbury Methodist (caroling afterward - dad and I went home - it was COLD), Christmas dinner with friends Ray and Randy, and an after-Christmas party at Beth's.


A few after Christmas excursions on Monday (like replacing Luke's broken cell phone) and back to the boat on Tuesday morning.  I've never seen Smokey so glad to be put on the boat.  Security of home, I guess.  She's stretched out in the cockpit, belly to the sun, purring and making little baby murr-sounds to herself.



Our plan is to see Bahama sailing friends Dee & Dave for dinner tonight.  The weather is perfect (right now) for an overnight run to St. Augustine, starting on Wednesday around 2 p.m. Florida may not be so warm right now, but it's gotta get warmer sooner or later!!!

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Exciting Night

"Sailboat approaching Ladies Island Bridge - are you on channel 9?" "This is Latitudes, yes sir." "Latitudes are you intending to pass through, or are you anchoring?" "We'd like to go through on your seven oclock opening." "The bridge is closed from seven to nine, if you want to get through you need to be here before seven." "Yes sir, we'll speed up, we'll be there in less than 4 minutes". It was about 6:52 AM! Barely light!

Our finely crafted plan to anchor near the bridge in Beauford, SC, spend the night, raise anchor before sunrise,


and save waiting two hours for the seven AM to nine AM bridge closing almost unraveled.
But it didn't. We made it  thanks to the helpful bridge tender.


And passed Beauford at dawn.


This was the culmination of an exciting night. Up at 2:30 AM (arggh!) to see the total lunar eclipse.




The rest of the day was a pleasant, uneventful meandering down the ICW past Hilton Head Island, across the Savannah River, and ending up at our destination, at a friend's dock on the Burnside River in Savannah.


So, with the exception of about 70 miles just south of Morehead City NC, over our past three trips south, we've done all of the ICW from Norfolk to Savannah. We appreciate the pleasant, relaxed (except for a few shallow areas), calm (at least this late in the season) and somewhat tedium of motoring down the ICW



 in contrast to the adventure, ease (most of the time), speed (a 24 hour day is many more miles than a 9 hour day) and, always some degree of uncertainty of an ocean passage. We do appreciate our outside runs and intend to do one from Savannah to St. Augustine in a week or so, if the weather gods are feeling the Christmas spirit!

Monday, December 20, 2010

Charleston and Low Country SC

Remember that I mentioned that we have seen eagles?  Here's one big boy!  We saw him along the ICW, as we neared Charleston last night.



Along the way, we also saw a graveyard of abandoned fishing boats.  So many dreams lost...




As we came into the Charleston harbor, we saw her trademark long bridges


Fort Sumter



Historic homes facing the harbor



And as night fell, a full moon over Charleston


We awoke this morning to "the secong coldest December day on record"...what are we doing wrong!!!  I just want some warmth!!!

Diesel and water at the City Marina (ice on the dock...) and off to futher south,  We made it almost to Beauford, SC.  It was 45 today, and sunny.  That made the world of difference in our cockpit enclosure.  Felt like summer!!  We finally shed our trusty flannel lined jeans and double sweatshirts for a while. Smokey liked it, too.

We had yet one more swing bridge as soon as we left Charleston.  This one opened only at 9a.m., giving us a 2 hour late start.


The low counrty through here is beautiful, although the ICW is not as well maintained as some states manage.  We had a lot of low water in areas where deep water was shown on the charts.


Smokey helped me anchor.  As the weather is warmer and less windy, and we are more comfortable with her cat-like prowess, we are more apt to allow her to roam the outside of the boat.  SHE loves it --- we worry.


and another full moon over the river north of Beaufort, SC.  Tonight is supposed to be a full lunar eclipse!  Hopefully we'll have new pictures tomorrow!



Sunday, December 19, 2010

The Kitten and the Tempest

A loud yowl, and she came bounding up the companionway steps into the cockpit, making a beeline for the bottom of the cockpit enclosure. Wanting to get off the #@#! boat, Smokey started pushing her nose under the bottom of a promising pannel, as she had learned she could sometimes get away with. It being 11:30 at night, 20 kt winds, 5 to 6 ft waves, the boat rolling and pitching, this was not to be! Luke grabbed Smokey, and held her in his arms. She really wanted to get to the bottom of an enclosure pannel. To "NO!" and "Stay" when she tride to get away, interspersed with "good kitty" when she relaxed, the battle of wills continued for the next half hour. Fortunately, Bruce, the autopilot, was doing a heroic job of steering and almost keeping the boat on course through the waves.

We left Morehead City about seven hours earlier, intending to catch a good (but not excellent) weather window and do 48 hours to Savannah on the outside. When we first got out, we had 4 to 5 ft waves from the south, left over from the recent south wind. Now the wind was building from the north east, as expected, so the wind chop to the south was added to the swells from the south - not great but OK. As the wind continued to build to 15 to 20 kts from the north east, so did the waves, to 4 to 5 ft. - still not great but OK. With the main sail only up, and the wind from nearly dead aft, we were getting virtually no steadying from the sail as we motorsailed downwind. A nearly full moon was on hand to greet the evening, leaving the horizon there as a reference - a big help as we're being tossed about. It didn't help Smokey much, though. She was cowering in the far reaches of a little space under the galley stove.

As Luke was trying to console Smokey, the clouds started building from the south, and Smokey was still trying to get away to escape. Positive reinforcement, warm secure arms and soothing petting didn't change her resolve. Finally, Luke brought her down to the aft stateroom, which has a door, and consigned her to the sleeping (sort-of) Bobbie, and closed the door.

When Bobbie's off-watch time was up, she left the kitten in the bedroom, came to the cockpit, and we pondered our next move. It had now started to rain, and the seas were gettting worse. We were both getting queasy, and had little desire to go below to sleep. We were at a decision point, at Cape Fear: continue to Savannah for another 36 hours, with the last weather predictions showing the same or worse, divert to the Winyah Bay, another 60 miles, or divert to Little River inlet, another 36 miles -- Little River won. We turned to port, now on a beam reach, wind 20 to 25 kts, raining nicely, Cape Fear lighthouse about 15 miles away, intermittently visible over the watery horizon. At 8:00 AM, we entered the shelter of the breakwaters of Little River inlet, motored to the ICW and headed south.

Once we got into the ICW things got better.  Still plenty of rain - here's our first swing bridge, in the rain.


Take a look from the stern of our boat at this floating casino!   That would be fun, huh?


Sweet Smokey finally came out into the cockpit and settled down.  Luke is never going to have this pair of woolie socks if she keeps helping me knit.


After her terrifying experience on Friday night, she's been loathe to let us too far out of sight.  Here she is, helping me navigate.



This section of the ICW, in SC, is one we've not seen.  It's pretty - still a little greener than in VA.  The land is so flat and there are little creeks meandering off everywhere.  Lots of marsh grass and trees.  We've seen eagles, too.



Our plan - you know how that goes - is to spend tonight at the city marina anchorage in Charleston (no sightseeing this time) and then do 2 more ICW stretchs.   That will get us to Savanah for Christmas!  The weather is a much smaller factor on these inside runs.  AND it's supposed to be in the upper 40's and SUNNY tomorrow!



Saturday, December 18, 2010

Didn't make it all the way to Savannah

Too much wind and waves - gave up at 8 a.m. Saturday and went into the Little River Inlet, in NC.  Went another 40 miles on the ICW.  I'll do more tomorrow if I have internet - ready for  very early bedtime tonight!

Friday, December 17, 2010

Out to Sea

We have left Morehead City and are out to sea, heading for Savannah, 48 hours away.  Back to you when we get there!

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Things are improving...

At least it feels that way.  The last few days have been difficult - our bilge pump failed on Sunday ($$ & work), snow and howling winds on Monday, Tuesday night was still windy and frigid.  We finally left Wednesday for a brisk sail, but the heat pumps were blowing cold air rather than hot this morning! - anixity. They're working again now.

Luke took this beautiful picture of the Alligator River sunset last night after I wrote the blog.  Our first sunset this trip (and our last sun for a while).


Not a bad night - 25 instead of 16.  That's a big difference.  But the heat pumps failed sometime during the night and we were anxious about what it would take to fix them.  Fortunately, it seemed that it as probably some frozen pipes - works GREAT now!  Luke's theory is that with a 25 degree night, and 37 degree water, the heat pumps pumped enough heat out of their water supply to freeze it and reduce or stop the water flow and the heat supply.

We checked the weather this morning and knew the day would be "interesting".  As we started down the 22 mile Alligator/Pungo Canel, the effects of the last few cold days were apparent.  Just look at this - the boat in front of us was playing "ice breaker".  Ice across the whole canal.



Here's a close-up of the icy water.


As predicted, the day began benign enough, but after 2 hours the snow started.



Then the sleet and freezing rain.



I am SO GRATEFUL  for a full enclosure.  One poor soul is in an open boat from Maine- I don't know how he did it.  I killed part of my "non-watch" time on the computer. Note the towels "sealing" our enclosure, and the electric heater on the floor. Still not exactly toasty warm.




After the forecasted 5 hours, the precipitation stopped, just in time for us to anchor in Goose Creek.  This is a beautiful, isolated, typical NC marsh anchorage.




The rain is back for the evening, but 1) we are 100 miles further south than Elizabeth City, 2) the temperature is a whopping 38!!!! and not supposed to dip below freezing tonight 3) the forecast for tomorrow is sunny and low 40's, and 5) the heat pump is working again. It was so cold before that it was hard to do anything.  Plus we were up every 2 hours during the nights to either start or stop the generator (can't let it run continuously).  I do feel better about the journey now.  Tomorrow is Morehead City, another 50 miles south and with temperatures forecasted even higher.  AND!  as of right now, the weather looks like a possible outside run starting on Sunday or Monday to Savannah for Christmas.  Warmer weather, here we come!!!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

We left Elizabeth City!

16 last night, ice on the INSIDE of our ports in the bedroom...




We were more than ready to leave. We left Eizabeth City and the Pasquatank River for a brisk sail across the Alabemarle Sound, down the Alligator River, and to an anchorage at the mouth of the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal. Even though we waited in Elizabeth City for "good" weather, we still had 15 to 20 kts, gusting 25, fortunately on a beam reach, for our journey across Albaemarle sound, with enough chop to get our bow splashed,

No, not many pictures - it was just too damned cold.  The high today was 32, the water temperature is 35.6.  ugh.  This is amazing to us ---- ice on the boat during our sail.  We've NEVER had that before!




We finally met other crusing boats.  So, now there will be 4 of us working our way south, taking different side trips en route.  I know the weather is cold everywhere, all the way to Florida. Forecast is for snow in Norfolk, tomorrow. Hopefully only cold rain here. I sure am ready to find some warmth!

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

It's so cold!

Still in Elizabeth City.  We have finished day 4 of our "48 hour welcome".  We decided to beat the cold and rented a car yesterday and drove 3 hours to Morehead City to 1)stay warm 2) see a friend 3) pick up a boat part.  The well-meaning (I'm sure...) Elizabeth City Power Co. disconnected our power cord yesterday while we were gone, coiled it up neatly next to the boat, and left us an extrodinarily nice note saying that they could not provide us electric power.  oh, well.  It was good while it lasted.



En route to Morehead City, we toured Edenton - what a cute town! http://www.edenton.com/ 
Edenton was the first permenant settlement in NC. I would have loved to walk around, have coffe, etc, but we were in a bit of a rush to meet our friend and it was COLD AND WINDY. But very cute. We'll visit it again!  That statue that you can see from the back is honoring their Confederate War Dead.  There is an identical one in Elizabeth City.


We also saw New Bern - need to take some time there Tryon Palace  http://www.tryonpalace.org/governors_palace.php
The royal governor of NC lived there in the 1770's   New Bern was the first capital of NC.

Burr - 16 tonight but we think we can leave tomorrow morning. There is still snow on the rear of the boat from yesterday (it's ice now...). But tonight should be the last of the frigid days for a bit. Hopefully we'll be further south by the next cold snap. We sure hope so.  It was snowing horizontally yesterday when we left the boat.   The heat pump is running in the boat right now and I have on a long-sleeved tee shirt & 2 sweatshirts, flannel lined jeans, 2 pairs of socks, and shoes.  I'm not toasty warm.  It's 26 outside & windy, 53 in the bedroom, 61 in the salon, and 45 in the front of the boat.  Time to cook something warm on the stove.

Luke replaced the bilge pump, the bilge pump float switch, and the bilge pump circuit breaker.  Lotsa electrical bits and pieces scattered around.  Better work now!  Smokey was most interested and wanted to help. She really wanted to go down into the bilge and explore it.


Before we took the car back today we decided to run past the Elizabeth City Wal-Mart.  oh, my...biggest Wal-Mart store on the east coast...wow.  Anything and everything you could possibly want.  But, it was built on an old farm field and the winds there are FIERCE.  Yes, it's a windy day, but that was horizontal wind, taking your breath away.

So, here's to tomorrow - let's hope we can make it across the Albemarle Sound and another 50 miles south!

Monday, December 13, 2010

Still in Elizabeth City

Rain yesterday, wind today and Tuesday.  Maybe we can leave on Wednesday.  At least there is no competition for the dock...

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Frosty morning and Rain in Elizabeth City

Yulp, it was cold leaving the NC Welcome Center.  21, I believe.  Frost on the bimini.


Ice on the waters of the Dismal Swamp.  That white stuff is frozen foam.


Here is the sight of leaving the Welcome Center.  That's the dock and welcome center on the right.  The little bridge is about 2 years old and goes across the Dismal Swamp to a new little state park, The Dismal Swamp State Park http://www.ncparks.gov/Visit/parks/disw/main.php   It's still small but very nice - trails through the swampy area.


Fortunately, the sun was out and the cockpit heated up nicely with our little "Florida room".  Even Smokey decided that it was ok under way and came up to join us in the sun.



We still had the lock at South Mills, NC, to transit.  This is the one that takes us back down about 8 feet when we are southbound.  It had frozen areas, too.  Only boat in the lock --- oh, surprise.




It was a nice trip to Elizabeth City.  The Chamber of Commerce was holding mail for us (cool, huh?), we ate  lunch at the ever cheap, ever good Quality Seafood Restaurant & Market, bought fresh talipia for another night, and revisited the Museum of the Albemarle.   Then we rechecked the weather and discovered that we'll be here a few days. Rain today and Sunday, howling winds Monday - Wednesday.  The nice Rose Buddy at the dock helped us move Latitudes to a new spot, one where we can reach electricity.  Electric heat!  Endless lights!  Christmas lights!



Unfamiliar with the Rose Buddies?  Check out http://www.elizcity.com/rose/  Sure enough, someone is always here to help arriving (and departing) boats with the lines and decision on which slips the boat will fit into.  No wine parties, though, unless there are at least 5 boats by 5 p.m.  We really appreciate these guys.

No parties this week - we are the only boat here.  If you get a chance during daylight, check out the Elizabeth City webcam on http://www.ecncweather.com/harborcam.php   Latitudes is the only boat in sight, at the far end of the dock.

One little bonus, Elizabeth City has a farmers/craft market each Saturday from 11-3.  No real farm products today, but lots of crafts.  Fun to wander through, especially since our boat is about 15 feet from the booths.



Rain forced a shortened market, starting about 1:30.  We're in the boat, warm, dry, and doing "stuff".  Luke is replacing that leaking faucet in the galley.  I'm going to make split pea soup as soon as he clears the area.  Smokey has been helping Luke, but has decided that a cozy nap is more appropriate.  Think we'll be boat bound for a while.