Thursday, August 25, 2011

Maine's Main Artist Island - Monhegan

Monhegan is a jewel of Maine - an island of choice for artists - local, famous, and just happy painters.  It didn't start that way.  When the Indian wars broke out in 1676, over 300 colonists from the mainland fled to the outlying islands.  First to Damariscove (earlier blog) for a few days and then to Monhegan.  We, too, fled to Monhegan, but for different reasons!  It IS beautiful!

Our plan had been to make a run from Rockland to Monhegan.  We left early but only made it as far as Tenents Harbor due to high winds and choppy seas.  But, at 6 a.m. the next day, we set our sails for Monhegan, and sailed all the way there.  It was a glorious day and a perfect day to be there.  The nice harbor master had arranged for us to use (rent) one of the lobstermen's extra moorings.  Good thing - it's a tiny harbor.  And no lobsterman takes kindly to coming back to his mooring after a hard day at sea only to find it taken by a pleasure boat.  Here is a view of the harbor - and town - from the vantage point of the lighthouse.  That tiny strip of water between the islands is all the harbor there is.



The view of shore from Latitudes.



Once in town, we remembered the narrow, unpaved streets that wander past old homes, galleries, and small shops.


Tourists (and there are plenty) come over for the day or week on ferries from the mainland.  First on most agendas is the relataively easy walk to the lighthouse.


Further into the island, through a wooded path, and wow!  THE views from the cliffs.  More tourists....



The view without them...



We opted to sit on the rocks, drink in the views, and have lunch.  Unfortunately, the "street smart" seagulls there are quite accustomed to unprotected food.  One turn of my back and off this fellow flew, with my sandwich bag in tow.  Fortunately, a nice young man chased him down, screaming at the bird, and the rascal dropped the bag.  The seagull let us know he was displeased.


After our successful lunch, we decided to take the hike around part of the coast.  I don't mean the word "hike" lightly.  Yes, I'm on all 4's, climbing these rocks on the trail and yes, that green moss under me is a long ways down. 



But it was worth it.  More beautiful views.  This artist is taking it to the limit.  He's set up his easel on the very edge of the rocks, but it must be worth it.  I personally can't imagine dragging all of my art supplies and easel up those rocks.



We eventually gave up the hike and took the "fairy house" trail back to town.  Trail walkers have built small fairy houses all along the trail, using only natural bits and pieces.  I liked this one.




Back into town, we saw more artists.  I'm not sure what this fellow was painting, but I  can tell you that it was definitely his version of reality.  Bright and colorful, though!



Ant then ---

Can't judge a book by it's cover - by Luke
While getting the dinghy ready to go back to Latitudes for a bit, we were joined by a young man who was politely interested in the boat.  He looked at the numbers on our dinghy, which start with "VA" for Virginia, and said -- "that's a long way to come in a dinghy!" "Ha, Ha - yes it is, but we carried the dinghy on our boat moored out there". He was visiting Monhegan with his wife and child.  He asked some questions, which is not unusual for us when people find out we've sailed from VA. Then he said he also had a boat - a Cape Dory 30 ketch. OK, so that makes him a sailor, and raises his stature a bit relative to an interested landlubber. And then he says "I've also done some crewing on a 56 ft ocean racer". Stature goes up again - this guy probably knows a lot more about sailing than we do. "Yeah, I'm just back from the Fastnet Race". Stature gioes into orbit - this is a 600 mile race along the south coast of England and up to Ireland and back. It invariably runs into severe North Atlantic weather, and related disasters and safety lessons learned.  http://fastnet.rorc.org/  "That's a pretty rough race is my understanding". (Luke trying to appear knowledgeable) "Yes, in fact "Rambler", a 100 ft boat, lost her 15 foot deep keel, capsized immediately, 11crew clambered onto the hull, 5 others floated  in the water for 3 hours, all were saved". His raceboat is owned by "a prince" who sends the crew to safety school and outfits them with all of the best safety equipment available.. Just goes to show you can never, EVER judge a book by it's cover.

And, speaking of small world, you may remember this picture of "Rambler" that we took in Lake Worth on our way south last year.


We had dinner on the boat, but returned for "Jamboree" in the church.  Jamboree is an open talent show for locals and visitors.  There were over 20 performers!  Some were wonderful, others I could have done without.There were the ususal singing guitar players, some very good. There was also a young man who is an absolute virtuoso flautist playing an incredibly difficult and complex piece, and a superlatively capable young woman playing violin works. There were others who had written poetry or songs who provided balance.   But we enjoyed it.  The small old church still has gas lighting. A gentleman carefully lit each lamp by turning on the gas in each and holding a candle into the mantle.


We left before 6 a.m., needing to make it back to the mainland before afternoon winds picked up.  It was a bit breezy.  Smoke - ever becoming more and more of a boat cat - wanted to wander the decks in the wind.  She had to be restrained with her harness and leash.  Not a happy cat, but she resigned herself to watching the water sternward.  Those big ears are turned back, listening to me take her picture and wondering if I'm going to release her.


We are waaay up a creek in Casco Bay now, anchored to wait out winds and rain tonight. We are religiously watching Irene as she heads towards us.  Moorings and slips are long gone, but we are on one waiting list.  If it looks like just tropical storm winds, we'll ride it out on the boat, having done that before several times.  If she's coming in with full fury, we'll desert the boat at her anchorage, have friends pick us up nearby, and hope for the best.  There are at least 5 boats in this anchorage, all waiting.

wow, wow, wow!!!  The Blue Angels are roaring overhead!  Gotta run watch them!

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